Traveling Outside of Time
North of San Luis Obispo, as the train snakes inland through the tawny hills of Paso Robles, Jose, the car attendant, announces the afternoon wine tasting, another of Rosenwald’s brainstorms. Jose sets out two platters of cheese and crackers on the buffet table at the center of the car, then goes back to the bar, gets on the P.A. system and begins talking about the wines.
He’s no expert – he’s reading from a script provided by the wine sales staff who have contracted with Amtrak – but the script is a good one, with knowing phrases like “hint of blackberry” and “soft finish.” As Jose walks the length of the car pouring generous tastes – more like half glasses – he also hawks the wine. Rosenwald’s idea was that the cost of the daily afternoon wine tastings would be offset by purchases of wine on board. The wine is moderately priced, $12 to $14 a bottle, and there are a number of takers in the car this afternoon.
This daily afternoon event outlived both budget-slashing and Rosenwald’s tenure with the Coast Starlight, but others of his schemes have not. In its not-so-distant heyday, the Coast Starlight featured live, onboard entertainment with musicians, comics and magicians roaming the train. There were live concerts in the Pacific Parlour Car, jazz as the train pulled into Monterey Bay, classical guitar as the sun set on the Pacific. And, for one brief and shining moment, there was onboard massage.